Few dishes need a reinvention more than fish and chips. Even fewer people are brave enough to attempt this task.
At Fish&, though, the team have done something truly special, reinventing this British classic with the minimum of fuss while establishing themselves as the benchmark of good quality street food in Leeds.
Whilst some of the “street food” stalls in Trinity Kitchen seem to lack an authentic feel in terms of their exterior and their origins, Fish& has done the hard graft (going back to the start of the millennium working on this venture part time) and it is clear their team is determined to reap the rewards of the hard work they’ve put in.
A few critics on other Leeds blogs have noted that Trinity has created some negativity in terms of making a few previously busy parts of town now look a touch derelict. I personally would like to celebrate the success of places like Fish&, places that only exist in the city because of the decision by those behind Trinity to open up the experimental Trinity Kitchen space, a fantastic dining location for couples, groups of friends, and families.
I had previously sampled Vietnamese street food at Pho, so the challenge was on to see if Fish& provided the same punch of flavour for the same level of value.
After glancing through the menu (which offered some excellent choices and variety) I decided to go for a more expensive option in the form of a surf and turf burger, a choice that seemed to embody the innovation that FIsh& prides itself on.
After handing over my cash I was advised I would have a wait of about five minutes, which seemed perfectly reasonable if it meant the burger was going to be cooked fresh. The ‘surf’ mixture on top of the beef burger was made up of lobster, crayfish and crab, all smothered in a moreish marie rose sauce.
The burger was really well cooked and the ‘surf’ topping backed up the strong flavour of the beef. I was left very impressed by the construction and taste of the burger. It must be said that even the bun (arguably the least important part of a burger) oozed quality and added to the experience as it didn’t fall apart while I was eating.
Cost-wise it wasn’t cheap, but the reason I would return to this award-winning stall (having won best main dish at the British Street Food Awards 2014) is that the quality that is so often lacking at chains that charge the same price is very much there. The food tastes very, very good and the quality of ingredients shines through. Most importantly, though, the people driving the brand truly seem to care about the food, which is frankly all you can ask for.
Categories: Restaurant reviews